In partnership with HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD

Local vision:
life in Hong Kong as the city's residents see it

February 28, 2019

Explore this visual and immersive photo gallery of images either captured by locals or sourced by SCMP for their ability to show the “real” Hong Kong, and experience another side of this cosmopolitan city.

By Kate Springer

A city on the move, Hong Kong continues to reinvent itself year after year, decade after decade. Today’s city of 7.4 million people evolved from its humble beginnings as a fishing village into a thriving port, manufacturing hub and high-flying financial district. Hong Kong may be best known among visitors as a luxury shopping destination, but there’s more than meets the eye to this ever-evolving metropolis.

Venturing beyond the glossy malls and stunning skyscrapers of Central, travellers can discover another side of Hong Kong – one that traverses ancient traditions and endearing quirks, nature trails and unforgettable festivals. Thanks to the city’s efficient MTR and ferry systems, you can leave the city centre behind and be surrounded by greenery in just 20 minutes, watching the buzzing streets fade away below as you ascend one of Hong Kong’s photogenic peaks.

The call of the wild can be heard from every corner: in Sai Kung, in north-eastern New Territories, undulating green hills beckon travellers to climb the craggy coastlines and dive into sun-kissed blue bays. In Tai O, in the southwest corner of Lantau Island, pastel-painted stilt houses compete for locals attention as shrimp-paste producers dry their bright red wares in the sun as sampan boats ply around the quiet canals.

There is also much to discover in the heart of the city itself. From a wellspring of murals peppering the alleyways of Sheung Wan to Tai Hang’s mesmerising autumn Fire Dragon Dance, addictive dim sum served in old-school tea houses and Instagram-worthy outdoor markets, the city abounds with untapped experiences waiting to be discovered.

Celebrating the true spirit of Hong Kong, we invited locals to capture different sides of the city through a local lens. Explore our interactive map (above) to delve into the story behind each image:

Sheung Wan

Hollywood Road

One of Central’s oldest streets, Hollywood Road offers countless traditional Chinese antique shops, contemporary art galleries, fashion boutiques and top eateries. More recently, the street has become synonymous with edgy street art. Wander west towards Sheung Wan and you’ll discover colourful works by local muralists and international street artists alike. Marianna Cerini

Sheung Wan

Man Mo Temple

Hong Kong’s largest Man Mo temple in Hollywood Road – a Grade 1 historic building – pays tribute to Man, the God of Literature, and Mo, the God of War. During exams, students leave offerings for luck at Man’s statue, including a spring onion, for intellect, and celery, for diligence. Chermaine Lee

Sheung Wan

Cat Street

Whether you’re looking for Chinese antiques or quality souvenirs, Cat Street Market is a bargain-hunter’s paradise. The pedestrian street, formally known as Upper Lascar Row, brims with vintage pottery, knick-knacks and cheeky Mao memorabilia. A patient search could reward you with a hand-painted vase, jade jewellery or classic mahjong set. Chermaine Lee

Lau Fau Shan

Ha Pak Nai

Lau Fau Shan village, on the banks of Deep Bay in northwest New Territories, is home to the city’s last remaining oyster farms. With Shenzhen’s skyline in the distance, visitors can admire the many floating rafts that farm molluscs and dine on dishes with fresh oysters at no-frills restaurants. Marianna Cerini

Lau Fau Shan

Oyster farm

Traditionally dried in the sun, golden oysters are the calling card of Lau Fau Shan. For 700 years, generations of farmers have cultivated this delicious local species – named crassostrea hongkongensis after the city. The village a seafood paradise, especially during oyster harvesting season from May to June. Chermaine Lee

Lau Fau Shan

Fresh from the sea

Seen as a symbol of good luck, oysters are a popular ingredient in Hong Kong cuisine and can be prepared in a myriad of ways. Some are preserved through sun drying, and then braised or glazed, other times fresh oysters are prepared in various recipes such as stir-frying and deep-frying. Chermaine Lee

Tai O

Fishing village

Often described as the “Venice of the East”, slow-paced Tai O is set around a mellow canal that’s hugged by hills. Explore the area with a sampan (local boat) ride or take off on foot. A photogenic footbridge stretches across the waterway, offering an ideal spot to snap a photo of Tai O’s sea-faring lifestyle. Marianna Cerini

Tai O

Dried fish

For farmers in Tai O, the city’s oldest fishing village, sunshine is the key to drying locally caught seafood the old-fashioned way. To prepare for the preservation process, vendors remove all organs, fill the carcass with salt to retain the flavour and let it dry in the sun. Shop for dried fish, squid, oysters, and shrimp paste at the village’s dried seafood and market or try the salty delicacy atop a bowl of rice for lunch. Chermaine Lee

Tai O

Stilt houses

Home to the Tanka people, Tai O’s brightly coloured stilt houses, called ‘pang uk’, line a narrow estuary for protection from the wrath of the South China Sea. They’re more sophisticated than they look, too: the elevated platforms offer convenient parking berths for boats and protect against flooding. Chermaine Lee

Ma Wan

Tsing Ma Bridge

Most beautiful when viewed at dawn and dusk, the imposing Tsing Ma Bridge connects two islands – Tsing Yi and Ma Wan – hence the name. Thanks to sheltered carriageways on its lower deck, this feat of engineering has stayed open, come rain or shine, since it debuted in 1997. Chermaine Lee

Ma Wan

Fishing village

Only remnants of Ma Wan Town, a thriving fishing village of 2,000 inhabitants some 30 years ago, remain. In 2011, inhabitants were relocated to make room for a new housing development. Today, you can still find the old creaky pier, vacated stilt buildings and an overgrown park. Chermaine Lee

Ma Wan

Tin Hau Temple

Hong Kong’s economy once relied heavily on the sea, and fishermen worshipped Tin Hau, the Goddess of the Sea, for protection from the sometimes adversary weather. Temples dedicated to the deity can be found throughout the city. Today, this historical structure looks out to the modern Kap Shui Mun Bridge. Reggie Ho

West Kowloon

Freespace Happening

Covering a 40-hectare area on the banks of Victoria Harbour, West Kowloon Cultural District will house 17 arts and culture venues when it fully opens by 2022. Already, the HK$29 billion-plus project is hosting events including the monthly Freespace Happening music festival (pictured) and Cantonese opera at the Xiqu Centre. Kate Springer

West Kowloon

M+ Pavilion

As the city awaits the highly anticipated debut of M+ Museum – a world-class centre for visual arts set to open at West Kowloon Cultural District in 2020 – the M+ Pavilion serves as a pleasing appetiser. The minimalist, mirrored design revolves around an elevated gallery ideal for small-scale exhibitions. Kate Springer

West Kowloon

Cultural district

The West Kowloon Cultural District is fast becoming Hong Kong’s premier event space. Other than Freespace Happening, there is a slew of multi-sensory experiences taking place here – think photography exhibitions, traditional Chinese theatre, family-friendly workshops, film screenings and the four-week-long Hong Kong International Black Box Festival for contemporary theatre. Kate Springer

Tai Hang

Fire Dragon Dance

Every Mid-Autumn Festival, usually held in September, the hip neighbourhood of Tai Hang transforms for the action-packed Fire Dragon Dance. The three-day, 140-year-old tradition brings together 300 performers carrying a 67-metre-long straw dragon, covered in incense sticks, which winds its way through the streets accompanied by drummers and firecrackers. Marianna Cerini

Tai Hang

Lin Fa Kung

Once overlooking the sea before reclamation pushed it inland, Lin Fa Kung (meaning “temple of the lotus") was built in 1863 during the Qing dynasty as a house of worship dedicated to Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy. It is most recognisable for its two-entry design and the semi-octagonal front hall. Reggie Ho

Tai Hang

Haw Par Mansion

Causeway Bay’s Chinese Renaissance-style Haw Par Mansion was home to Burmese-Chinese entrepreneur Aw Boon Haw, the ‘King of Tiger Balm’ menthol ointment. Its Tiger Balm Garden statutory park was demolished in 2004, but the mansion is now the Haw Par Music Farm, a school for Western and Chinese music. Chermaine Lee

Tai Po

Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees

Over 700 years ago, Tai Po locals ritually threw ‘wishes’, written on joss paper and tied to an orange, into the Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees. Today, thousands of people visit them during festivals, but instead tie wishes to wooden racks or imitation trees to preserve the two beautiful banyan trees. Marianna Cerini

Tai Po

Man Mo Yi Tai Temple

Man Mo Yi Tai Temple has been a prominent Tai Po landmark since the turn of the 19th century. Inside, a beautiful courtyard bathes the temple in natural light, while engraved tiles feel cool underfoot. Now a declared monument, this house of worship honours the Taoist gods of literature, Man, and martial arts, Mo. Kate Springer

Tai Po

Ng Tung Chai

You’ll hear the roar of Ng Tung Chai waterfalls – after a 3.5-hour trek across streams and rocks – before you see them. They are hidden inside Tai Mo Shan Country Park and are formed by four remote waterfalls – Bottom Falls, Middle Falls, Main Falls, and Scatter Falls. Kate Springer

Kowloon East

Hungry Ghost Festival

The seventh month of the Chinese calendar is called “Ghost Month”. To ‘feed’ the spirits of ancestors, locals burn offerings and practice rituals, including comedic ‘thanksgiving’ shows, on the 15th day of the month, during ‘Hungry Ghost Festival’, when the ‘ghost gate’ is open enabling spirits to move between worlds. Marianna Cerini

Kowloon East

Choi Hung Estate

Dating from 1962, Wong Tai Sin District’s Choi Hung Estate – ‘rainbow’ in Chinese – is one of the city’s oldest and largest public housing complexes and home to more than 18,000 residents. The estate is painted with eight colours – supposedly chosen by the government to boost residents’ spirits. Kate Springer

Kowloon East

Lok Wah South Estate

The public housing blocks of Lok Wah South Estate in Ngau Tau Kok feature interesting architectural designs. The sky blue walls on the rooftop of its dedicated car park, which include perfectly placed holes and symmetric lines overhead, add whimsical character to the space. Kate Springer

Sai Kung

Geopark

A visit to its Unesco-listed Global Geopark, in Sai Kung, is one of the best ways to experience the expanse of Hong Kong’s natural beauty. The 50 square-km coastal park features sea caves, cliffs and these spectacular hexagonal rock columns formed by violent volcanic eruptions 140 million years ago. Marianna Cerini

Sai Kung

High Island Reservoir Monument

A gateway to the Hong Kong Unesco Global Geopark and the pristine beaches of Sai Kung, the High Island Reservoir East Dam walks the line between the natural and artificial. A giant blue dolos serves as a memorial to the workers who lost their lives during construction in the 1970s. Kate Springer

Sai Kung

Long Ke

About a 30-minute hike over the hill from High Island Reservoir East Dam along the MacLehose Trail, you’ll find one of Sai Kung’s best, isolated beaches: Long Ke Wan. Set up camp for the night, cook up a barbecue dinner, or simply splash around for the day. Kate Springer

Tai Mo Shan

Highest peak

The 957-metre Tai Mo Shan is Hong Kong’s highest peak. Set within Tai Mo Shan Country Park, it tends to be shrouded in fog. But those who wait at Tai Mo Shan Weather Radar Station for the fog to dissipate at will be rewarded with a view like no other. Marianna Cerini

Tai Mo Shan

Country park

A winding 4.5-hour hike to Tai Mo Shan starts at Tai Mo Shan Country Park Visitor Centre and follows the MacLehose Trail Stage 8 past wild tea shrubs, a tumbling waterfall, long forgotten villages, an abandoned military barracks and Tai Mo Shan Weather Radar Station. Kate Springer

Mong Kok

Ladies' Market (Tung Choi Street)

In the lanes around Mong Kok’s Ladies’ Market visitors can buy cheap accessories, clothes, bags and make-up with a little haggling. In some areas shoppers can shelter from the rain under durable ‘red-white-blue’ nylon canvas – the ubiquitous 1960s material that’s a sign of the city’s collective adaptability and resilience. Chermaine Lee

Prince Edward

Bird Garden

The city’s retirees like to keep birds as pets and often ‘walk’ them through the streets in delicately handcrafted bamboo cages. See for yourself at Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, where you’ll find a community of friendly bird lovers as well as low-key shops selling bird food and accessories. Chermaine Lee

Yau Ma Tei

Temple Street

Temple Street Night Market comes alive after 6pm as vendors look to strike deals on everything from jade to gadgets, watches and teaware. Within the maze of stalls, superstitious types ask fortune tellers for a glimpse of future while nearby Cantonese opera houses and food stalls offer more local colour. Chermaine Lee

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