‘Lifestyle rather than performance’: a visual guide to wearing Chinese hanfu

There are many reasons why people still wear hanfu today. For some, it signifies a way to reestablish a connection with their Chinese heritage and traditional culture, promoting cultural preservation and continuity. For Hanfu Hong Kong, which was founded in 2013, the practice is a way of life that embodies a unique lifestyle choice rather than just a passing trend.

Tips on wearing hanfu

There have been debates within the hanfu community on how to wear hanfu in modern times. Some see hanfu as a tribute to Chinese civilisation and believe it should be treated with respect and hanfu style rules should be followed. Others would prioritise aesthetics above all else, believing hanfu can be worn with fewer strict guidelines.

Here are some tips from the local hanfu enthusiasts, showing some common looks that strike a balance between honouring ancient culture, looking good and also being practical for daily wear.

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Want to start wearing hanfu but worry about getting it wrong?

It is difficult for newcomers to distinguish between cheap knockoffs and items created based on historical research. Hanfu enthusiasts from mainland China have compiled a list of commonly used terms associated with knockoff products that can be found online. Examples include: 古裝 (ancient costume), 仙女 (female divinity) , 民族風 (ethnic style), 表演服 (performance), and 貴妃 (imperial concubine). Members of Hanfu Hong Kong encourage people to join their group and share information on acquiring hanfu in the correct format.

Modern hanfu demonstration

Local hanfu enthusiasts Kaspar, Sammi, Scarlett and Carol share with us some of the most popular hanfu and matching hairstyles.

Cultural significance of hairstyles and headpieces

The Han Chinese people have historically had a strong cultural connection with Confucianism and its teachings, one of which is the idea of 'filial piety', or respect for one's parents. For example, cutting hair was considered harmful to the body, because hair is considered a gift from one's parents. This belief led to Han Chinese people coiling it up or wearing more elaborate hairstyles instead of cutting their hair. The hairstyle also shows social status, leaving all the hair untied is considered a bad habit.

Process of a complete Ming dynasty hairdo

For modern hanfu lovers, it’s very common to purchase a semi-readymade wig for styling and to add volume to the hairdo. Ancient paintings and sculptures are always their source of inspiration for hair styling.

China’s clothing system has a long history dating back to the Xia dynasty (2100BC) and has gone through various changes and developments over time. By the end of the Qing dynasty (1911AD), western-style clothing had become increasingly popular among the upper class, and traditional Chinese clothing was gradually phased out.

The modern hanfu industry chain finds its roots in academic and cultural studies, from institutions such as the China Silk Museum in Hangzhou, the country's largest museum specialising in textiles. It hosts exhibitions that showcase research and important findings about ancient Chinese clothing. These exhibitions have a strong influence on the annual hanfu trend, guiding modern hanfu designers as they create new garments for hanfu enthusiasts.

The popularity of hanfu has led to the growth of many related industries. For example, Cao County in Shandong Province is currently the biggest hanfu export centre in China. In Cao County alone, there are more than 2,000 hanfu related enterprises, including hanfu fabric making, embroidery, dyeing, pattern making, hanfu professional pleating, wholesale and retail stores.

Currently throughout China there are numerous hanfu organisations that promote activities of all kinds, such as fashion shows and performances. Some tourist attractions like scenic areas and ancient towns (Panmen Scenic Area of Suzhou Ancient City, Ehu Rose cultural Park in Jiangsu, World Kejia Muqinyuan Square in Fujian, Qingyan Ancient Town in Guizhou) offer free admission to people wearing hanfu.

Hanfu rental services

Hanfu rental services have gained significant popularity in recent years. They provide visitors the opportunity to experience traditional Chinese clothing and select their desired hanfu style. These services are especially popular around ancient cities like Beijing and Xian where people could wear hanfu while travelling around the tourist attractions for photo opportunities.

On the other hand, electronic business platforms like Taobao are the most common way to purchase hanfu products for individual customers. According to a market research in mainland China, the majority of buyers would spend between 100 to 500 yuan (US$14-69) on a single piece.